Tab day at the Sandwich Shop

I stopped by what has quickly become my favourite lunch time stop: Buckingham Coffee Lounge. Tucked behind a shopping complex with the likes of mainstream eateries such as Nandos, Eat, Wagamamas and the ever present Marks and Spencer, my little sandwich shop is delightfully simple. No Rocket + Brie & Cranberry compote baguette to be found here, just straight forward simple British sandwiches. Which of course means obscene amounts of mayonaise. But if I’m careful in my ordering I can avoid the typical gloopy english sandwich and get something quite tasty, and for under £ 2.50! Lately, I’ve become a bit of a regular, and as a result I’ve noticed that I’m not alone. The same 4 staff members who work there every day are starting to know me, but not as well as the hoards of cabbie drivers who seem to come by everyday. I’ve noticed the black cabs lined up outside before, but never paid much attention to how often these guys lunch here. But today the staff was extra chatty with them, since I learned today is tab day. At least half the place was setteling their weekly tabs with the shop. Quite the trusting policy especially given that we’re in central London and all the papers on the coffee shop tables are splashed with headlines about the 11 year old boy shot dead in a drive by shooting (err.. ride-by, it was from a bicycle. The killer is beleived to be 13). But in this little sandwich shop, London feels very friendly.

In this photo, you can see the green sign for the shop, and all the black (and one token red) cabs lined up outside.

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Back in the U.K.

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You know what I love about the British.. their sense of humour. It’s so dry and just plain amazing.

There are these two old British guys at work who sit upstairs, I used to sit near them and know them quite well. I ran into them at the end of my lunch. Now I have on a coat, a scarf, rosy red cheeks and a half broken umbrella and those two are just out in their regular suits. So I question them and they proceed to, as the British call it, take the piss out of me. Please picture this with molasses thick British old man accents:

me: No jackets?

Num 1: oh what? No, I wanted to get some fresh air..
Num 2: …yes, it’s just so dreadfully hot these days.
Num 1: … mm, yes, just stiffling actually.
Num 2: well, it is August, we must expect it.

me: oh yes, hardly. It’s freezing out today! And the rain makes it worse

Num 1: oh what? this? Just wait until November
me: Oh right, when it will be dark by lunch?

Num 2: No, that’s when the real rain starts.
Num 1: You’ll be happy it’s dark. You won’t be able to see the rain.
Num 2: hmm yes, only way you can bare it.

So amusing.

For the Brits who read this

This photo is for the few Brits out their who read this. This is Toronto’s version of the tube. Notice how wide and spacious it is, almost luxurious. It’s 9.30 am and hardly a crowd (unlike the Victoria line that dies down for about 12 minutes around 11 before picking up the lunch time crowds) And the crowning achievement … Air conditioning!!
(we won’t discuss the limited service map or that there only 2.5 lines …details details)
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The joys of our neighbourhood

This is King’s Cross after all. But what’s with the paper bags? This is London, I believe public drinking is legal … If not those chavs on the bus, construction workers at the grocery store and football hooligans on the tube (on Saturday morning I might add) have some explaining to do! Seriously, why hide it? Although I admit it looks a bit artistic. Have artists moved in? Maybe the neighbourhood really is gentrifying!

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Sunday Roast with some Canadians

i love that London is a transport hub for people. You get lots of random people passing through on their way to somewhere else. Today my old clasmate Scott was on a few day lay over on his way to a 4 week trip to Africa. We met him for some Sunday roast at a unassuming pub near oxford circus. This roast had the biggest Yorkshire pudding I’ve ever seen!!! Not your normal little cupcake sized bowl, no this was a huge slab of Yorkshire pudding goodness:
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Adverts on the tube

This is typical. An advertisement for something I don’t get. I don’t know who that is (am I supposed to?) and I just think the question is a bit rude! Maybe I should be reading one of the several dozen trashy gossip magazines they have here. Sent from my BlackBerry wireless device

The Sun is Shining, so what are the cats doing?

Gorgeous weather today!! And yesterday too. Yesterday I went for a haircut, looked at a flat with Jason (it was meh), went to Nottinghill, had brunch (with cocktails!). Then had my cappucino and travel magazine weekend special. I even did a bit of shopping 🙂 Dinner was on the bbq at home and in the evening Jason and I pub/patio crawled. An excellent Saturday.

Today is looking promising too. Look at this weather:

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Amazing. And none of this Canadian humidity either!

So… the question I’m sure on everyone’s mind, what are the cats doing?

Mips:

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His harness is hidden with his mad furriness.
Now, where is Tinrib? Oh that’s right… hiding!

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Precious.

At long last, Summer is here

As the government and insurance companies tally up the flood damage, we finally get a a snippit of sun.  Blue skies, sun in my eyes … (sigh) … I haven’t had a lunch break like this since April.  So much for June and July!

Today I slapped on some comfortable shoes and explored deeper into Belgravia, an area that is mostly residential and for some reason, under perpetual construction and renovation. Perhaps this is a case of keeping up with the Jones’, because every seeminly perfect looking house is being gutted and massively renovated. And it seems that each house requires a large team of construction workers who all love to take their lunches sitting on the curb in front of the multi million pound home they are working on (and by multi I mean 15…). It makes for an interesting walk for me. With every corner that I round I am faced with a street lined with learing men all crouched down at knee level, keen to make comments.

But mixed in between the gorgeous creamy white homes, pockets of retail exist. It’s quite hidden, so walking along these small streets is like walking through a quiet little village. A quiet super expensive village (think a loaf of fresh artisan bread for 4 pounds).

Still, how nice is this weather :

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Back from the Cotswolds … and the Floods

We took Friday off to go visit the Roman city, Bath and then spend the weekend in the Cotswolds with Jason’s parents.
More on Bath later when we get our memory card back and have photos to share. As for the Cotswolds, they were quite beautiful, even when flooded.

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Evesham, one of the hardest hit towns over the past few days is only 19 miles away from where we were.
Even Oxford where we ended up this afternoon, 45 miles away, had signs of flooding:

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Luck brings me to a shoe sale

It’s amazing what good luck you can have.
It’s Thursday, Jason is out with his parents touring around London visting St.Paul’s Cathedral:

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me .. I’m at work.
Dinner time rolls around and I suggest to Jason that we take his parents to something somewhat unique to London, a gastropub (high end food, but in a pub). I’d heard that this place called The Pigs Ear was good and it’s in Chelsea near Sloane Square which I thought would be a nice place to take the in-laws. We are after all trying to show them all parts of London, not just the touristy parts.
Well as luck would have it the gastropub happened to be on a very small side street that has nothing but houses … and the only Manolo Blahnik store in London. Actually, in the whole EU there is only two stores, this one and one in Spain.
It seemed a bit odd that I would stumble upon it this way.
But then I noticed a sign in the window: sale.
And a 2 day sale, starting tomorrow! What kind of good luck is this?!

Well that random Thursday night at the Pigs Ear is what brings me back to Chelsea on a Saturday morning:
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.. and it was everything I hoped it would be.

Coronation Chicken

Friday lunch.
Like most days, I treat weekday lunchtime to be an exploration into British culinary culture. First thing to note, obsession du jour is sandwiches, actually ready-made sandwiches. Actually, ready-made sandwiches on really shitty cheap bread. My parents told me that 5 years ago when they were visiting, baguettes were all the rage. My best guess is that the dreaded white carbs got a bad name within the last few years and the delicious baguette was pushed aside for seriously, what looks like Wonder bread.
To each their own.

Having already mastered the ready-made take-away sandwich places (Pret a Manger, Eat and M&S) I’ve been venturing into places that bill themselves as ‘cafes’ but really are basic, no frills sandwich bars. At least the lunch is cheap. And the cappuccino’s are decent.

Friday. Coronation Chicken.

I’ve actually never heard of this before, I simply pointed at the bowl of yellow stuff and asked for it on baguette (no Wonder bread for me). The name was announced as it was brought to my table.
I don’t think it gets anymore British than this. Pieces of chicken in a sweet Indian curry sauce with a pompous sounding name.

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I could do without the raisins though. I’ve often said I don’t like raisins in my baked goods, I’ve now learned they don’t belong in my cold curry sandwich either.

Happy Canada Day!

Hard to believe it’s July 1st, what with all the rain and the freezing cold weather!! It makes me mad that on Canada Day I need to wear a cardigan! But yes, i was warned about the rain. After a nice soak in Notting Hill and my Sunday morning cappucino I jetted across town to Angel to meet Jason and James at Foxtons, the most dreaded of all property agents. ps. everyone in London is named James. 2 people at work (out of 35 that’s impressive), our mortgage broker, and our real estate agent. They’re all around the same mid-30 age. Must have been THE name back in the early 70’s here in england.

Foxtons does a great job of living up to it’s horrible reputation. I called them 2 weeks ago about a flat I saw posted on their site. The guy called back 2 days later, to tell me it was sold. oh ya? No kidding! This is London, flats are sold within hours here. People put more thought into buying a hand bag from the Kate Moss Top Shop line than a fully attached 400 sqft flat. Anyway, my consolation prize with James was an appointment to look at properties… 2 weeks later. sigh.

So today was our big day with Foxtons.
Tuns out we only get an hour slot, and he only had time to show us 2 properties. Of course of that hour we spent about 20 minutes of it trying to find the properties. The guy didn’t know where they were! Seriously. What kind of property agent is this?! Long story short… no sale. We were not impressed with either property, or with Foxtons. Shame that they have the best website, and work the most convenient hours (there are too many agents who don’t work past 6)

So, back to Angel to meet with 2 Canadians for some Sunday roast. Sometime between the gravy and Yorkshire pudding (which by the way is not a pudding at all, it’s more like bread, a gross semantic misrepresentation) the clouds parted. The laws in London meteorology were over ruled, and my long lost friend, the sun, returned. Within minutes we had blue skies, a bounce in our step and a hankering to share some love for Canada. So off to the Covent Garden market we went.

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I’ll give the Maple Leaf pub lots of credit, the place packed in more Canadian cliches than I thought possible. Sleemans and Moosehead beers on tap, Tragically Hip and Nelly Furtado coming through the speakers, old hockey games on the telly and poutine on the menu. But it went further. The place was decked out like a giant log cabin with Mountie figurines on the wall.
A giant grizzly in the corner, with a well placed hat:

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And the placed was sufficiently packed with a pushy enough crowd that instantly transported you back to your favourite university bar. And in my opinion their crowing achievement was achieving a Canadian smell. Picture a nice hot ripe hockey bag with a splash of the Ridout (or Bruny for you UofT folks). Impressive.

On the way home we noticed that weren’t alone in our love for Canada:
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I think might go back on the 4th and see if they show the same love for the USA.

Flat Hunting

We are as they say, in the market.
After probably far too much analysis we’ve decided that we should be flat owners in London (I’ll spare you the details of my spreadsheets and emotions that lead us to that decision). So we’ve started to look. Kings Cross, as many people know is a ‘diverse’ area to say the least. A shit hole with a sprinkling of gentrification is probably more accurate. It’s also the intersection of 3 different postal codes (N1, NW1, and WC1) and operated by two different city councils (Islington and Camden). This makes Kings Cross have pockets of massive housing diversity. Our area of choice would be in WC1 in one of the gorgeous red brick 1930’s buildings that seem to be well maintained. Of course one look at the floor plans and we quickly decide that a 475sqft 2 bedroom flat will just not work (how you manage to take a space that size and fit in 2 bedrooms is beyond me).
We then found this one pocket of Kings Cross that seemed to have reasonable prices so after looking at a few listings online we decided to see the area for ourselves and this is what we find:

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Now I know that when you’re busy thieving and such, morals aren’t too high on your list of priorities, but surely assaulting a poor man in a wheelchair who’s only trying to make a phone call, say to wish his mother a happy birthday, has got to send up some sort of red flags! Christ, he’s in a wheelchair! And might I add, that at 8:40pm it’s broad daylight!

Nice neighbourhood. Seems like some great people live here.
I think we’ll pass on buying a flat here.
And so the search continues.

The Ascot!

I probably should have done more research on what the Royal Ascot really is about. It was bigger and fancier than I ever imagined. To get to the Ascot you need to catch a train from Waterloo. I decided I was too embarassed to be prancing around on the tube to Waterloo station with my facinator on, but when we surfaced at Waterloo we found a maze of dressed up people queing for train tickets all in their hats! The amount of guys in top hats is what surprised me the most. I should have worn my little hat thing on the tube too, but I didn’t know. Actually the whole day seemed to be for people who are in the know. The train to Ascot was packed, and we immediately realized that our 10:50 train was BYO-bottle of champagne! If I had only known! It was an hour ride out, and some champagne would have been very nice. Instead we rode to the sound of champagne bottles popping open every 8 or so minutes. We felt like amateurs.

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The trained pulled up to the Ascot where there was even more of a crowd! There were police on the platform and even drug-sniffing dogs! (My friends who arrived on a train shortly after ours had the privilege of seeing one bloke get hustled away after a dog sniffed his pocket!).

Jason has decided that if he goes next year, he’s renting the full Ascot outfit:

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That by the way, is entirely typical of the people who were there. Aside from the glossy stadium, you really don’t feel like it’s the year 2007.
Jason and I missed breakfast that morning and spent some time perusing the grounds for food. I’d say that the food and beverage stands were 90% booze only (dominated by Pims and Champagne). The other 10% that was food related were fairly high end too! We found lobster & champagne boxed lunches for £38, a restaurant serving a set meal for £60 per head. We happened upon a high end deli shop that served up some ready made over priced sandwiches that we quickly snapped up. Such the Ascot amateurs we are! Turns out we were too close to the Royal Enclosure area:

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As soon as we went over to our general admission area we saw a burger kiosk, a curry stop and even some pizza. No lobster and caviar on this side, simple food for the the simple folk.

I suppose the most amusing part of the event is the Royal entrance. They take a horse drawn carriage all the way from Windsor to the Ascot (about 10 miles or so) and then ride in onto the race track before ascending up to their Royal box:

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And then the races start. There are only 6 races, the rest of the time is spent waiting in massive lines for more drinks (thanks boys!), placing bets on your horses, and playing spot the crazy hat.

These are some of our favourites:
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I particularly like this one because in her pink outfit she’s sorting out her bets on the next race:

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Here’s what we wore (Heather I’m sorry to post one with your eyes closed, the other picture I had of the 3 of us my eyes were closed, and well… it’s my blog… and..):
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The races were actually quite exciting to watch:
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But I can’t stress enough how much of a booze-fest this was:
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By the time the last race finishes this group was pretty exhausted:
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I’ll give the Brits plenty of credit. They have impressive drinking stamina.
And of course, we’re already planning for next year.

More on Hats

It’s been a hell of a week! Work has been excessively busy, and even included a very last minute trip to Latvia. I landed back in London just this evening and after a massive delay on the Gatwick express due to a fire at some random station, I went straight to Selfridges to pick out my Ascot outfit (I know! A little last minute? But I was planning on shopping every evening this week after work … I just didn’t expect to be on a business trip this week!.. anyway..). I picked out a dress no problem, the hat situation .. well that was an ordeal. I can’t stress my vanity about this enough… I look damn good in hats. The hard part is not finding a hat that looks good, I’ll be honest they all look fabulous on me, the hard part is finding the right one to match my outfit. And p.s. to the sales lady at Selfridges, telling me: “on one hand it really goes, but on the other, it doesn’t” is really not helpful advice!! Either my tangerine jewel encrusted facinator with black veil goes… or it doesn’t!!

After no luck at Selfridges, I dashed into Debenhams relieved to find it open until 10pm and to my surprise ran into a coworker at her wits end over the exact same thing! In the end I we picked a bow-thing that isn’t so much a hat as a hair piece. I’m pleased.
We’ll post some photos tomorrow.

When they say TUBE ..they really mean: hot stinky oven

Here’s an idea.
You know all that gold crap locked up in Buckingham Palace:
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Ya, that obscene pile of gold. Why not sell it (auction it off, melt it down… I don’t care) and use the proceeds to put new trains on the London Tube that are perhaps AIR CONDITIONED!? Surly one family doesn’t need that much gold in their occaisonal home?! (To the Brits who read this, I’m sorry… I just don’t *get* monarchy. It seems dumb)

It’s June now. Riding the Tube to work is like taking a 45 minute joy ride in a crockpot.
I think it might be time to take the bus again.

As Seen On the Tube

With my very own eyes earlier this week…

An old man pulls out of his pocket a giant wooden cross about the size of package of bacon and quietly, but visibly, prays for each and every passengers soul. What was particularly interesting is that he only prayed for us whilst we were in motion. At every tube stop he quietly put the cross back into his pocket and stood in silence until we were in motion again.

Sunday: Swimming, Shopping and Sitcoms

My idea of a fantastic Sunday in London (when husband free):

Sleep in.
Go to the gym for a nice long swim (ignore the screaming kids having lessons 3 lanes over, and the mom&tots in the kiddie pool, and well.. the corresponding diaper-poo smell in the change room)
Take the tube to Nottinghill
Enjoy a chicken wrap, cappuccino and a fresh travel magazine on Kitchen & Pantry’s soft leather couch
Take the tube over to Bond Street
Spend the next several hours getting acquainted with Selfridges and reacquainted with my old friend Marc Jacobs (and the stupidly high exchange rates! This stuff is WAY cheaper in Canada)
Dinner at home with the cats
A pint at the local to help finish off the magazine
and finish with trashy American sitcoms.

The Swiss Review

We’ve been back for a week, but I’ve been a bit distracted with this pesky CFA exam. For the record, I felt like there were less people in London writing it, than in Toronto, which surprises me given the amount of financial geeks there are in London. The procters are far more polite in London too. In Toronto they were quite militant. But, like Toronto, London’s CFA exam day was quite the sausage party. Thankfully, the convention centre was air conditioned. This is a legitimate concern in London!

But, back to the Swiss. For our 2nd May bank holiday (why are there are two bank holidays in May, I’ll never know, but I would like to smack the government worker who came to this decision up side the head! Could you not push out until like October, when we could use a day off to perhaps enjoy some turkey and pumpkin pie?! ) we decided to go to Switzerland. The long weekend was immediately after my birthday and I chose Switzerland because I’m slightly obsessed with this country since my visit almost 5 years ago, and have been dreaming about going back ever since! Thankfully, Switzerland did not disappoint.
I’m not sure what it is about this country that has me so infatuated. Perhaps I can chalk it up to the crisp mountain air that makes me think crazy thoughts like buying a cute little swiss mountain cottage and retiring to the alps. (i’ve been working for 5 years, surly it’s time to retire…)

On Friday we grabbed an evening flight to Basel from London’s Luton Airport. Luton, had the joy of experiencing a computer glitch that shut down their check in systems right around the time that oh… about 14 different Easy Jet flight passengers are trying to check in! Pure chaos. Of course, that just made us appreciate the Swiss infrastructure efficiency even more. It truly is wonderful. Never have I seen such punctual trains. They’re on time to the bloody minute!

On Saturday morning we took a train to Altdorf and rather than switching to a local bus, walked the 5km to Attinghausen, the start of the long hike. Not much to report about this town, it has 2 hotels, 3 restaurants and 1 grocery store. Clearly, it was a pretty happening place to be on Saturday night. At least it’s quaint.

Early Sunday morning we packed up are things and headed off. Knowing full well that we were in for a long hike (estimated at about 7.5 hours) we decided to spare some early pain and take the well placed cable car up to Brusti:
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The weather looked promising. Given the forecast of heavy rain, we were a bit concerned. We actually had wanted to sleep the night in Brusti as the Lonely P. hike suggests, but a few weeks earlier while making our hotel bookings we learned that when the Swiss say that the hiking season starts in June, they mean it. If you show up on May 26th a mere few days before June you’ll find most guest houses closed for “holidays”. There’s that punctuality again.
Fine. No matter, our sleeping arrangements down in Attinghausen worked out well.
So off we go on our hike:

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I will admit, hiking in late May which we now know is the off season, brings you some lovely solitude. For over 3 hours we hiked alone, just us and the cows … and their nosy bells (which are huge! but the sound is actually soothing, at least to me. I don’t know how the cows feel about giant heavy bells the size of toasters around their necks).

As we climbed higher we hit some snow which delighted us, snow in late May! How cute:
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But a few hundred meters higher, the weather turned and the snow didn’t seem so cute anymore!

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As visibility got worse, and with the normally frequent trail markers covered in snow we were VERY thankful to have GPS with us. Hiking season starts in June, INDEED!! For a good 45 minutes we were stuck on the side of the pass ankle deep in snow, without any visible trail markers!! About an hour later (along with some cursing and wishing for snow crampons) we managed to hit the top of the Surrenenpass, about 2300m altitude. Shockingly, on the other side of the pass the weather was glorious. The snow magically disappeared, the grass was visible, and there were actually a few hikers out and about on this side! Bizarre:
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This was also the side of the pass where we stopped for a cheese break (see post below), before making our final decent down to Engelberg. We started at 8:20am. With time to take photos, get lost in the snow, eat some cheese, and take more photos, we cruised into sunny Engelberg just before 6pm. A far bit longer than we anticipated, and our feet screamed in agreement.

Reminiscent of Spain, we were asleep before sunset.

Monday morning I pulled open the curtains of our hotel room to find it was snowing outside! What happened to our sunny lovely spring weather the day before?

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As the train to Luzern descended out of the mountains the snow quickly turned to rain. In retrospect, we had been quite lucky not to have this rain during our hike.

We made a lunch stop in Luzern (a very pretty Swiss town):
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… before continuing on back to Basel.
It’s not all football hooligans in Basel, the core of the city is very pretty:
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And with that, our 3 days in Switzerland were over.

And the dreams of when I will go back start again.

For the Love of Cheese – Part 3 the Swiss Addition

Did you think I forgot about this segment?
How can I forget about cheese!

In this 3rd installment of my 500 or so part series: For the Love of Cheese I profile Swiss Mountain cheese:
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On the right, the white cheese is a very soft Ziegenkäse which literally translates to goats cheese. This cheese had a nice light flavour, and a distinct squeakiness that most mountain cheeses have. It tasted great with tomato.

On the left, we have Alpkase a nice lightly smoked cow’s milk cheese. I found that the thick rind had an overpowering taste, but Jason seemed to enjoy it. The flavour was much stronger than the Ziegnkase, but well balanced with the smoky notes. A fine cheese to enjoy on it’s own, or with a pint of German beer.

Both cheeses make for excellent snacks during a long hike and are best enjoyed at altitudes of approximately 1700m. It was particularly nice to walk past the cows and the goats and give them a silent thank-you:

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